Keeping with the theme of 3 day riding
weekends, the group (Paul, Stuart, David and myself) decided to leave work
early on Friday and head out to Sutherland for the weekend.
The weather predicted was good
for Friday and Saturday, with the mother of all storms coming through on
Sunday. Undeterred, the plan was changed
to return by tar on Sunday, leaving at 11am once the worst of the storm had
passed. Erich suffered a break-in and a
physical struggle at his home on Thursday, and so was a late withdrawal, while
Stuart was able to leave earlier which he did – heading for Sutherland on the
tar.
The rest of us (Paul, David and
me) met at Richwood and departed at around 11.45. It is around 300km to from Richwood, so we
got going in the mist and clearing rain.
We headed through Occultdale to Wellington on the gravel roads which
were in reasonable condition after the rains, over a cold and damp Bainskloof
Pass and onto Winterberg Inn for Spare Ribs for lunch, which was not a moment
too soon. We were welcomed by a
roaring fire enjoyed a delicious cappuccino and Tubeless, the great dane/staffie
cross, popped in to come and say hi.
The weather wasn’t getting any
better, and we encountered some light rain going through Mitchells Pass to
Ceres, and on to Theronsberg Pass. As we
entered the Tankwa, the weather cleared dramatically, and I think the last time
they had rain there was in the Rindepest plague of 1937. The roads were good, and we hummed along
initially quite quickly, and slowing as the route became more mountainous. The Windhuewel Bossiesskerm “honesty shop” along the Sutherland
gravel road was closed as we passed but the riding is really magnificent, and
the scenery is great.
We stopped for a few photographs and when peeking through
the cracks in the door, it appeared that the honesty shop was no more and been
replaced by a ‘spiritual gathering place? Santa, the owner, has moved to Cape Town and the boma is now just a memory of what once was. Sad actually as it seems that this stop was a firm favourite for all the weary travellers passing through the Karoo and most certainly kept everyone on the straight an narrow from an 'honesty' point of view. I am sad that I did not get to expereince this generous gift that Santa brought into being. Perhaps someone else will revive it... time will tell...
Sutherland arrived without
incident just before nightfall, and we found Stuart who had well and truly
ensconced himself into the only hotel by that stage. We had drinks and dinner at Pullmans and
spent the next couple of hours on a star-gazing trip. Costs R80 per person, and you get to see
things through GPS guided telescopes like “The Jewel Box”, “Tarantulas”, and
planets Mars & Saturn. The night sky
at this time of the year is not as interesting as it is in summer, but nevertheless
there is lots to see and the eighty bucks was well spent. It was cold though and sounded like a gumboot
dance with everyone stamping their feet trying to keep warm.
We planned to do a 250km circular
trip on Saturday which included Gannaga Pass and Ouberg Pass which is exactly
what happened. After a big (if not
sumptuous) breakfast at the Sutherland hotel, we headed off in the direction of
Calvinia and had a brief stop at Middelpos where Stuart fuelled up. Paul and I, never being able to resist a shopping
spree, set off in search of a trinket or two at the general café, and I exited
the proud owner of a gorgeous little windmill at a bargain price of R40. Let’s just say I was in my element! Windmills + KLR = happy Ang! Next stop, about 30kms further we reached Gannaga
Lodge where we enjoyed a light soup and roosterkoek lunch. The boys took the 20 minute trip to the gorge
which is spectacular.
The trip down Gannaga Pass is
pretty steep, and the flat roads at the bottom have been graded and there were
long patches of sand. We hit these at
speed and simply kept going, so just a little adrenalin rush. I was very pleased to see that even Stuart on
his GS (Geen Sand), made it through unscathed!
It was becoming a long day, and
we kept the throttles open on the way to Ouberg. The pass is steep and long and I think it can
be extremely challenging in poor weather.
Fortunately we got there in perfect conditions, and apart from my KLR trying
to ride over the edge, everyone got up safely.
From the top there is still 40 or so km to go to Sutherland, and we got
back to the hotel just as it was getting dark again.
Erich and Mark (and their furry children
Jessie & Toby) made the trip by car and joined us for dinner at the
hotel. Everybody had lamb shank which
was truly delicious, and bitter sweet depending on which rugby team you
supported. Final score - Stormers 21, Sharks 19. The weather then got stormy and rained
throughout the night, clearing on Sunday morning. Thank
goodness for the electric blankets on all our beds, clearly a necessity in
Sutherland. After a late breakfast, we
kitted up with many layers of clothing plus jacket and rain suite, and headed
for Cape Town at 1130am after a refuel. Please
take note that there is no fuel available before 1130am on Sundays so be sure
to fill up on Saturday afternoon if you are planning an early departure on
Sunday morning.
The 380km road back was at times
windy, cold and wet, but nevertheless enjoyable. The KLR’s chew petrol at around 120/130km/hr
into the teeth of the north-westerly wind, so we stopped at Worcester to
refuel. Consumption 16.3km/l which is
the worst we have ever got. It is
usually around 22.5km/l. We got back
home by 4.30pm, just in time for the Nav to wash the bikes before nightfall. What an AWESOME weekend. I bitched like hell before the trip about
possibly freezing this weekend but I can honestly say that I was not once
uncomfortably cold… except for maybe when we did the gumboot dance to keep warm
during our star gazing tour. Thankfully
Stuart came armed with hot chocolate and before retiring for the night after
stargazing, he treated us all to a delicious cup of hot chocolate. Way to go Stu – looks like an institution in
the making!
The next ride will be some time
away and David’s bike has just returned from getting a new stiffer rear shock. My KLR will be getting a total makeover,
going up to 680cc, but primarily to get an aluminium mounting point for the
swing-arm repaired which just happens to be in the engine block. I blame it one too many bottoming outs going
over or through tricky patches whilst trying to keep up with the boys, but
mainly due to the fact that my suspension was lowered when I bought my KLR. So my recommendation to anyone who thinks it’s
ok to lower a suspension, DON’T DO IT! It
WILL cost you in the long run. It doesn’t
make such a big difference anyways and quite honestly, looking back now, I
imagine that I would have coped just fine had we not had it done.
DAY 1
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| Thankfully the first and last Ry/Go on route to Wellington |
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| straight ahead to Sutherland |
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| the Nav & Paul plotting extra detours no doubt.... |
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| my KLR in her element |
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| The Nav giving a thumbs up and enjoying the tranquility |
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| Photobombed by the Nav? |
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| let me in..... |
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| stone creatures - Art in the Karoo? |
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| The Nav admiring the Karoo art |
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| the star of David |
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| sadly the Bossieskerm is no more.. |
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| almost there |
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| Perlmans for dinner |
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| entertainment provided by the locals |
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| Paul couldn't resist taking this pic |
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Flash aha, masters of the Universe... flash photography not at its best!
Back at the hotel after stargazing tour.
DAY 2 |
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| on route to Middelpos from Sutherland |
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| Keeping an eye on Stu... |
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| Stu filling up his GS at Middelpos |
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| This is NO hotel California... |
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| General Dealer at Middelpos |
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| Middelpos, a 2 horse town. Next stop Gannaga |
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| The Nav taking in the Karoo magic at the gorge near Ganagga Lodge |
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Paul & Nav about to descend the Gannaga Pass
http://www.mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za/find-a-pass/northern-cape/item/434-gannaga-pass.html
|
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| Stuart???????? |
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| The spring debate |
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| finally.... |
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| on route to Ouberg |
I had an 'oh shit' moment on Ouberg Pass - not sure how visible it is on this Youtube clip that Paul managed to capture on his Drift - check it out...http://youtu.be/AmPz5tk6Oss
My take on it from my GoPro footage, including Gannaga Pass descend
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| At the top of Ouberg Pass |
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the panoramic views of Ouberg
http://mountainpassessouthafrica.co.za/find-a-pass/northern-cape/item/367-ouberg-pass.html |
The Nav &Paul (below) being treated to amazing views down over the Tankwa Karoo and beyond |
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Stuart at one of the last tricky hairpin bends.
A total of 8 sharp hairpin bends on Ouberg Pass |
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| My day is now complete! |
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Sutherland, 3kms up ahead
DAY 3 |
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| Our accommodation for the weekend |
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http://www.sutherlandhotel.co.za - The accommodation was very comfortable, clean fresh linen and
most importantly electric blankets and good moer koffee in the mornings! |
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| Anemometer on the main road opposite the hotel measuring the windspeed |
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| Paul all dressed up and ready to face the rain! |
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| Last stop in Sutherland before heading back to Cape Town |
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Paul and I window shopping again, this time at Magda se Winkel in Sutherland
whilst waiting for the guys to fill up |
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Seems helping yourself is much quicker than waiting for service
and no, he's not putting air into his seat... its a GS... |
Thanks again to the Nav for leading us through and along roads less travelled and getting us out into nature to enjoy some of the most breath-taking scenery in the world, literally right here on our own doorstep!
Till next time
Safe travels everyone
Angela
4 wheels moves the body, 2 wheels moves the soul
